Each week, we present a selection of our favorite watches from the pre-owned side of our collection. Captured by our talented in-house photographers, you get a closer look at what makes these watches so special. This week, we have a JLC Master Geographic ready for travel, a Rolex Milgauss built for the lab, the Tudor North Flag, a Nomos Club Sport ready for anything, and an IWC Portuguese made for charity.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic Ref. Q1422521
Sure, you can have a GMT that shows two or three time zones. Or you can have a world timer that can tell you the time in all of the time zones. Or you can blend the two together with the JLC Master Geographic. In a well-sized 39mm case, this JLC mixes the brand’s well-known attention to detail and watchmaking with a focus on globetrotting functionality.
The inner part of the dial is where things get complicated. With three, well, three and a half, dials providing the world traveler with all the necessary information. A power reserve and pointer date are up top, with a second watch dial down below. This dial has an arrow that points to the time zone it is set to. Change the time to whatever time zone is shown by simply rotating the 10 o’clock crown to jump to any time around the world. The trailing marker in front of most of the reference cities is meant to help account for daylight saving time. Finally, a small dial to the side functions as a day/night display for the indicated locale (so that things don’t get too confusing with all the jet lag).
Amazingly, even in solid gold and from one of the most prestigious watchmakers in the world, this travel watch costs less than some other big-name GMTs in steel. This is a travel watch for the connoisseur, the person who appreciates quality watchmaking over hype. In rooms full of travel watches, this is the one that will stand out for all the right reasons.
Tudor North Flag Ref. 91210
In a catalog packed full of Black Bays, the Tudor North Flag stood out as the brand’s quirky 2015 release. Like many other Tudor watches, its design comes from a vintage watch, in this case, the uncommon Tudor Ranger II. With an arrow-shaped hour hand, a blocky bit of lume on a yellow seconds hand, and some large Arabic numerals mixed with markers are straight from the original – the case and bracelet offer a cohesive and sporty package.
An integrated “H” shaped bracelet attaches to sharp cornered lugs that look more like a Rolex Oyster Quartz than anything in Tudor’s past, and, as time has passed, that case has become more appreciated by collectors to the point many would love to see it make a reappearance.
Unfortunately, this integrated bracelet sports watch – which represented the brand’s first use of an in-house manufacture movement – only lasted six years. The yellow color and power reserve wheel created a love-it-or-hate-it reaction. For those who love the look, like this author, it offers a 40mm sports watch with 100 meters of water resistance, an unusual case shape, and a bit of color to go along with 70 hours of power reserve – all in a package that won’t be confused with any other watch (including those from Tudor).
Rolex Milgauss Ref. 116400
GMTs were built for pilots, the Submariner for divers, and the Milgauss for scientists. With electromagnetic interference being a common issue in many labs, scientists needed a watch that could stand up to the background magnetic interference that would cause most watches to lose their ability to keep accurate time. Enter the lightning bolt seconds hand of what some have called the least Rolex-looking Rolex of all time. This has more to do with a fun use of color, which, until more recently, was not a common sight in the brand’s catalog.
To achieve the antimagnetic properties, Rolex surrounded the movement with a cage made of a soft iron alloy called a Mu-metal. Often, this is referred to as a Faraday cage, but to get nerdy for a moment, this is not strictly accurate. A Faraday cage is made up of conductive material that moves electromagnetic current around the outside of an enclosed space, protecting what is inside from things like RF, EMP, or electric discharge, but does not stop low varying magnetic fields. Mu-metal cages work very similarly by moving magnetic fields around the object and protecting what is inside, but have little effect on the electromagnetic fields that Faraday cages are made for. However, if you have a superconducting material, you can make a cage that works for both.
It is a professional’s watch that offers a little extra fun with the colorful dial while still having 100 meters of water resistance, meaning you can take it from the lab to the pool and back to the office.
Nomos Club Sport Neomatik 42 Date Blue Ref. 782
Offering something a little more sporty, Nomos gives us the Club, specifically a Club Sport Neomatik. Most of what Nomos offers to the world are slim designs that could be confused with a dress watch if it were not for the wide array of colors that are often found on the dials and hands. The Club Sport is no different and keeps things slim at hair over 10mm, while still providing an in-house movement wrapped in one of the brand’s sportiest looks.
The long angular lugs found on most Nomos are replaced by shorter, more flowing lugs that offer a more classic look and wear more easily on the wrist. A sunburst blue dial has a mix of Arabic and stick markers painted on that are signature to the Club line. Look a little closer and you will be surprised to see 1,000ft printed on the dial. An everyday sports watch with the water resistance of a true dive watch? That is what Nomos gave us, and it is slimmer than almost any dive watch ever made.
It is a nice touch of engineering overkill from a company that comes from a school of design known for not overdoing things.
IWC Portuguese Jackie Chan Charitable Foundation Limited Edition Ref. IW3714-33
The vertical two-register chronograph is an unusual choice that has helped the IWC Portuguese chronograph stand out in an increasingly crowded field. Introduced in 1998 as a chronograph, the original Portuguese goes back to the 1930s, with the numeral font and leaf-style hands being a signature of the watch line for most of its existence.
In 2004, IWC worked with Jackie Chan to create this limited edition watch of only 250 pieces. The solid 18k rose gold case has matching hands and applied numerals on top of a panda dial. On the back of the watch is Jackie’s name mixed in with the Chinese character for dragon. Each watch is individually numbered and marked with “IWC for the Jackie Chan Charitable Foundation.”
Personalization towards a celebrity might be a bonus for some and a turn-off for others. IWC thankfully kept things more discreet by keeping the logo and other customization on the back. It is there for fans of the martial arts legend and hidden away for those who appreciate a beautifully-made gold chronograph from the Schaffhausen watchmakers.
Source : HODINKEE